Updated: Aug 23, 2020
This week, we will be joining all of the squares to make the main body of the bag. This part is written in steps rather than rows/rounds so it is easier to understand. Enjoy!
USEFUL INFO (for whole CAL)
Skill level: Intermediate
Yarn used: DROPS Fabel
Yarn A: 615m (3 balls) - variegated
Yarn B: 410m (2 balls) - solid
Yarn C: 410m (2 balls) - solid
Yarn D: about 25m
Suggested colour combinations:
Combo 1: Yarn A: Blue Sea Print, Yarn B: Rust, Yarn C: Turquoise, Yarn D: Off White
Combo 2: Yarn A: Guacamole Print, Yarn B: Mustard, Yarn C: Apple Green, Yarn D: Off White
Combo 3: Yarn A: Pink Dream Print, Yarn B: Pink, Yarn C: Grey-Blue, Yarn D: Off White
About the yarn: 4 ply; 205m per 50g ball; 75% wool, 25% polyamide,
Tension: Each finished square should measure 8 cm x 8 cm
Hooks used: 3mm
Hints and Tips: Make sure your keep a loose tension when working waistcoat stitch as you will be working into the bodies of stitches.
Abbreviations: This pattern uses English Terminology
st/sts = stitch/stitches
dc = double crochet (US single crochet)
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
tr = treble crochet (US double crochet)
fp = front post
bp = back post
yo = yarn over
P (+ number) = picture number on grid
Waistcoat Stitch (wst): Insert hook between the ‘V’ created by the 2 vertical strands of the st below, yo and complete as for dc.
Spike stitch (sp st): Insert your hook into the skipped stitch of the row below, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops
Double back post dc (dbpdc): Back post dc around post which already has a bpdc around it. Dc should be placed under original bpdc not on top of it.
The join I have used (The zipper method) does take a bit longer than the other methods out there, but give it a try and see what you think of it. You will crochet the blocks together as if you are zipping them up. In the pictures below you can see that the slip stitches make a flat cable on the front of the bag and a running stitch on the back. When joining the squares, place them side by side (not one on top of the other)
Step 1: Arrange your squares in the layout given below. Each square should be placed side by side with the right side facing up. Note: The Front and back are joined all in one piece (not separately).
Step 2: Starting with the left square on the bottom row , insert your hook from front to back into the back loop of the first stitch. Now insert your hook from front to back into the back loop of the first stitch of the other square.
Step 3: Yarn over (using yarn C) (keeping yarn at the back of your work), pull through all 3 loops on your hook.
Step 4: Repeat Steps 2-3 all the way up your first 2 squares. Remember to keep a loose tension. Slip stitches don’t stretch as much as other stitches, so if you work very tightly, your edges won’t have any give.
Step 5: Join the squares in a grid. When you have finished joining the first two squares, don’t fasten off. Lay the next two squares next to each other as before and continue slip stitching them together as for the last squares. You can attach any number of squares in this way. The idea is that you join all the squares in one direction first and then join all the squares in the other direction after that. You should be left with a 10 x 5 flat rectangle. Use the zipper method to join the two sides of the rectangle together to make a tube.
Thanks for reading